


Surfed two sessions at Rincon on Saturday. Conditions were better earlier but more crowded. I managed to weasel my way through the crowd and got what was probably the longest ride I have ever had. Later in the day it got choppy, but there were less people so there were more rides.
The rest of the day Chris and I hung around the town of Carpinteria. We ended up sleeping in our cars in hotel parking lots. The negative side of that is, well, sleeping in your car. The positive is you don't have to pay for a room and you get a hot and free continental breakfast. Hilarious!
Sunday morning we went to Rincon. That place is amazing! The swell had grown and it was clean. I sat in the lineup for almost two hours and didn't get a single wave. It was super crowded, but I was able to get some good pics. There were also several dolphins out in the lineup. It's nice when they're around. In the afternoon I started driving north and checking spots. I ended up surfing a spot that I think is called Lorraine's. There were only 3-5 other people in the lineup and I was able to redeem myself. It was a bit uncomfortable paddling out after seeing a the carcass of a sea lion on the beach with a big chunk missing from it's neck. I scored several waves that were head high give or take and ohhh soooo glassy. I ended on a really good note with a wave that was about 100yd ride and almost started pitching over top my head. Steep and fast....sooo gooood!!!! The Pacific has a lot more power behind it's waves than the lakes.
Tomorrow I plan to find one of the many sheltered points in the Santa Barbara area. The crowds should be down as we move into the work week...
1 comment:
Rusty, you were in Carpinteria? I am totally trying to get a job out there right now. It's at the Cate School. Can you scope the campus for me? Are you still around? What did you think of the place? That is so cool. Way to score in Cali! See you back in Wisconsin.
Jason
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